Food shelf in a market in Bixiga, a neighborhood of Italian origin in São Paulo. Photo: Luigi Tadini
Leo Robelin e Luigi Tadini (Intercambistas- Administração)
See Portuguese version by Cecília Carrilho (3th semester)
Walking through Bixiga, São Paulo’s famous Italian district, feels like entering a sunny, bustling Italy. As a 20-year-old exchange student from Milan, I was excited to see my culture being reinterpreted here. What I found was a vibrant, unique blend of Italian tradition and Brazilian energy.
With a population of over 12 million people in São Paulo, and a large portion of them of Italian descent living there, it’s no surprise that Italian culture has left its mark. Like Brazilians, we Italians are proud of our roots and love to show it off. But is Bixiga’s culture the same as back home? Well, yes and no.
First Impression: Familiar Energy
I immediately felt at home when I visited Bixiga in the Bela Vista district. Italian flags were painted on the walls, and there were pizzerias and mom-and-pop shops selling Italian goods on nearly every corner. The atmosphere was unmistakably Italian: people gathered in the streets for focaccia aperitifs, chatted on benches, and hung out in cozy tavernas known for their wine. It reminded me of my neighborhood in Milan, where social life often revolved around local bars and bakeries.
Taste Test: Authentic or Just a Look?
I couldn’t resist testing whether its authenticity went beyond the looks. My first stop was Basilicata, an Italian grocery store, bar, and restaurant all in one. The products are 100% Italian, and the food? Excellent. I tried the focaccia with Italian sausage, mozzarella Napoli with pistachios, and the panino with prosciutto, arugula, and spiced cherry tomatoes. It was like biting into a piece of home! However, there were two downsides: the prices were high, and they didn’t have any Italian beers—a missed opportunity to taste a truly authentic beer.
Another standout spot was “C Que Sabe,” which felt like a time capsule of Italian culture. The decor included photos of Italian icons like Silvio Berlusconi and Lucio Dalla. The atmosphere was just right, but the menu? Not so much.
Where Italian and Brazilian Cultures Merge
This is where things get interesting. While the atmosphere looks Italian, the menu is clearly adapted to Brazilian tastes. Some of the dishes are ones I’d never heard of in Italy, like the chicken pasta, or creative twists on classics, like carbonara, which uses bacon instead of guanciale. In Italy, this is a big no-no, but here, it’s a delicious innovation.
The same goes for dishes like polenta and milanese, which Italians consider “piatti poveri” (simple, inexpensive meals). Bixiga has modified these dishes: the polenta is served with a rich meat sauce instead of cheese and ham, and the milanese is served with more luxurious garnishes. It’s a creative reinterpretation that shows how Italian cuisine has evolved to suit Brazilian tastes.
A Unique Cultural Fusion
Bixiga isn’t a perfect replica of Italy, but that’s what makes it so special. It’s a living example of how cultures can blend to create something new and exciting. As an Italian, I found comfort in the familiar—like the flags, the food, and the lively social atmosphere—but I also loved seeing how Brazilians have made our traditions their own.
So, if you’re an exchange student like me looking for a taste of Italy in São Paulo, Bixiga is a must-visit. Come for the pizza, stay for the samba, and enjoy the vibrant mix of two passionate cultures.
See more photos of Bixiga below. Photos: Luigi Tadini and Leo Robelin